Black History Month – a sophisticated chef

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Hi there,

In celebration of Black History Month, I am sharing with you this article about a fabulous black woman and chef who was the Rao’s of soul food in Manhatten during the swinging 60’s. The article was originally printed in Southern Living and written by Lisa Cericola


Who Is Princess Pamela? A Southern Cooking Legend Returns
By Lisa Cericola

It’s every cookbook collector’s dream: stumbling across a true gem when you least expect it. When Southern food experts and brothers Matt and Ted Lee found a well-worn copy of Princess Pamela’s Soul Food Cookbook: A Mouth-Watering Treasury of Afro-American Recipes in a vintage bookstore, they realized there was something special beyond the book’s plain paperback cover. The out-of-print book deserved a second life (and a better cover), so the Lees decided to republish it. Released on February 7, it will be the first title under their new imprint, the Lee Brothers Library Series.

The book, written in 1969, is a collection of recipes from The Little Kitchen, Pamela Strobel’s twelve-seat soul food restaurant, which she opened in Manhattan’s East Village in the 1960s. Orphaned at 10 years old, Strobel was just a teenager when she traveled north from South Carolina to make a new life for herself. Her one skill was cooking and she had two excellent teachers: her mother, Beauty, who was a pastry chef, and her grandmother Addie, who raised her. Even though Strobel was too small to lift a heavy frying pan, she was able to talk her way into a job washing dishes at a Winston-Salem restaurant. It wasn’t long before she was cooking and running the kitchen. Eventually, Strobel made her way to New York City and opened The Little Kitchen. Several years later, she published one of the first cookbooks about soul food, then opened a second restaurant in the East Village called Princess’ Southern Touch.

Although Strobel treated her tiny restaurant like a private club, her smothered pork chops and nightly live jazz (she often sang with the band) attracted a loyal following, including many famous names such as Diana Ross, Andy Warhol, and Gloria Steinem. As the Lees write in the introduction to the re-released book: “The power of Strobel’s personality, as remembered by the thousands of people who experienced it, was consistent: indelible and electric,
an evening in her presence was a roller-coaster ride of emotions that ended either in a rapture—as the smothered pork chop and corn bread soothed, and Strobel took the microphone to conjure the deepest blues—or in ruin, if she tossed your ass into the street when one of your guests brought a sense of entitlement to the table.”

Strobel’s remarkable success story and soulful recipes are enough to make Princess Pamela’s Soul Food Cookbook worth another look, but the Lees were especially struck by her lyrical writing. Strobel paired nearly every recipe in the book with a poem, showing how Southerners intertwine food with almost every part of life, from relationships to religion to race. Strobel pairs a recipe for tripe with these lines, which still feel relevant today: Practically every kind of people/ eat somethin’ that somebody/ else make a godawful face/ at. If that don’ tellya what/ this race-hatin’ is
 all about, nuthin’ will./ In this life, we gotta give / ourselves a chance to digest a/ lotta things we don’/ understand right off.

It’s hard to imagine how such an outsized figure could disappear completely, but that seems to have been the case with Strobel. After Princess’s Southern Touch closed in 1998, no one seems to know what happened to her—or if she is even still alive. The Lees researched as much as they could, talked to people who knew Strobel or ate at her restaurants, and even hired a private investigator and geneologist. In reissuing the book, they took great care to leave Strobel’s words as written, although they tested each recipe and offer suggestions on adjusting the seasonings for today’s reader. The result is a beautiful, hardcover edition that celebrates and preserves the life and work of a long-lost Southern legend.

Read on for an excerpt from Princess Pamela’s Soul Food Cookbook, including three recipes:

I Never Got a Chance
Because Beauty, my mama, was away working all the time, supporting us, I never got to be with her very much. Even when she came home to visit, I couldn’t be with her enough because everybody wanted to be with her, and it looked like they were pushing me away.

Even when Beauty got sick in Boston and came home to die, I couldn’t be with her enough. She was only twenty-eight. And she had been getting ready to bring me up there. Beauty wanted me to be a concert pianist or a doctor!

I can tell you something. Beauty was on her deathbed, and she called us all in there. And pretty soon she asked for some food. Well, I was a little thing and I didn’t do any cooking. But I went in the kitchen and boiled some water and put some cauliflower in and brought it to my mother.

Then she said to my uncles and all, “I have taken care of you all, all these years. But now I want to rest, and now I want you to take care of my child.”

I never got the chance to say the things I really wanted to say to Beauty—all by myself, without any interference or anybody around me. I never got a chance to say them one-to-one. —Pamela Strobel

What Our Food Is About
I was thirteen when Mama and Grandmama were dead, so I decided to go on my own up north—about 125 miles to Winston-Salem. That was certainly North to me. I rode a bus and had three pigtails, my mother’s suitcase and diamond watch, and a big white bow in my hair, but I didn’t even have a place to stay. So I asked a man on the bus where the colored section was, and he sent me to the worst part of Winston-Salem.

I saw a lady walk by when I got out of the cab. Her name was Maude, and the first thing she asked me was, “Did you run away?”

I said, “No, ma’am.” And I kept asking her if she had a room to rent. Finally that lady said she had a mother-in-law in a wheelchair about a block away. “Maybe you can stay there, because she’s holy and righteous,” she said. And I did, and she was.

Early mornings, I’d go look for work right here by the R.J. Reynolds tobacco plant. You had a lot of little restaurants around there because of those thou- sands of people. Well, there was this little place on the corner, where a lady had already said I was too young. So
I decided to go see her at home when she was sick.

“You’re too young, honey, what can you cook?” she said.

I wanted that job so bad! So I said, “Well, who is gonna cook the food for lunch?”

Pretty soon, she’s send me to the restaurant to help the salad lady. When I got there, I saw this high sink was filled with dishes, and I couldn’t even reach the sink! So I looked out back, and there were some Coca-Cola crates, and I kept piling them up until I could reach the sink.

I washed those dishes, and after that, I took the chops out of the icebox, and I made chops and I made steaks. You know how you take the steak and flatten it out and then fry them off and then make gravy? You talk about something good.

I even started making the slaw my own way that day, and pretty soon the salad lady made it that way. When I started there, I couldn’t even lift the frying pan down without someone helping me!

That was the beginning of what I’m doing now. I learned a lot from Mrs. Smith, and I loved her. The only day I wouldn’t go work there was Sunday, but I’d go anyway and sit with her in that little restaurant because that luncheonette was her life.

I think I learned how to cook the best food in the world between Mrs. Smith and my grandmama, and I’m trying to keep my place what our food is about. I try to keep the music that goes with our food, the jazz. I have to pay for the musicians out of the chicken money and it’s hard. And I sing hard. But I’m from staunch stock, and don’t you forget it. —Pamela Strobel

Steamed Shrimp
2 pounds shrimp, unshelled
4 bottles of beer*
Salt and pepper
Melted butter

With kitchen shears or sharp knife make a slit down the back shell
 of each shrimp. Devein but do not shell. If you do not have a shrimp steamer, use a saucepan for the liquid and a wire rack for the shrimp, making sure that the bottom of the rack does not touch the boiling liquid. Pour beer into the bottom part of the steamer or into the saucepan. Bring to a boil. Place the shrimp in the top part of the steamer or the wire rack. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and Tabasco. Place over the boiling beer, cover tightly, and let steam until the shrimp turn pink—about 15 to 20 minutes**. Arrange shrimp on platter and serve with cups of hot melted butter. Each person will peel his own shrimp and use the butter for dunking. Serves 4.

EDITORS’ NOTES: This technique of deveining but leaving shells on is super old-school and very special.
*Use a commercial lager like Budweiser or Rheingold.
**Shrimp will turn pink in about 5 to 10 minutes.

I’m in the restaurant
business ’cause I know
cookin’, but there’s
more to it.
I love people. I really

do love people.

There’s a selfishness

in most and a bit of hate and
a little cheatin’—
but if

yuh keep on

smilin’ and

talkin’, the


do come through

and the lovin’
kindness they

got for somebody


Pork Spoon Bread
1 pound ground pork
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground sage
No. 1 can of tomatoes (2 cups)
2 tablespoons minced onion
1 tablespoon minced celery
3/4 cup yellow corn meal
1 cup milk
3 eggs, well beaten

Place the ground pork in frying pan and break up with a fork. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and sage and mix well. Fry until brown and cooked throughout. Drain o the fat and reserve. Combine tomatoes, onion, and celery in saucepan and let boil for several minutes. Gradually stir in the corn meal. Cook until thick, stirring constantly. Stir in the milk and heat through. Combine the beaten eggs with the pork, 1/4 cup* of the reserved fat, and the corn meal mixture. Turn into a casserole* and bake at 375°F for about 45 to 50 minutes**. Serves 4.

*EDITORS’ NOTES: Triple celery and sage; double onion and pepper; use 1/2 teaspoon more salt.
*Add the milk with the corn meal, and add more if necessary.
**Ground pork these days is super lean, so use bacon drippings or vegetable oil to make up the difference.
***A 9-by-11-inch casserole.
****Consider topping with shredded cheese 15 minutes before completion.

Fresh pork sausage

is like a sweet prayer.

It may not bring you anythin’

but it make everythin’ bad
a mite easier

to swallow.

Buttermilk Pie
3 eggs, separated
2 cups sugar
½ cup butter
4 tablespoons flour
2 cups buttermilk
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1 9″ pie shell, unbaked

Cream together the egg yolks, sugar, and butter thoroughly. Add the flour and beat. Stir in the buttermilk and lemon juice. Beat the egg whites until stiff and fold into the buttermilk mixture. Add nutmeg and pour into pie shell. Bake at 300°F until firm—about 45 to 50 minutes.

Everybody ask
me how come
I kin do all my cookin’
in that closet-
space kitchen.
For anyone been in as
many tight spots as I have,
sweetheart, it’s easy
as buttermilk pie.

I hope you have enjoyed meeting Princess Pamela as much as I have enjoyed introducing her to you. More information about Black Women Chefs can be here: 16 Black Chefs Changing Food in America – The New York … › black-chefs-restaurants-food.

19 responses to “Black History Month – a sophisticated chef”

  1. A woman who can cook and sing jazz….wow…respect!

  2. Dorothy's New Vintage Kitchen – I'm a writer, cook, gardener, photographer, poet, quilter, and accomplished daydreamer. I'm also a wife, mother, grandmother, sister. cousin, aunt, and friend, no particular order on any given day. I've been a writer all my life, newspaper reporter and columnist, radio news writer, and magazine contributor, and poet and short-story writer as the spirit moves. Now, I turn my attention to my cookbook, the blog, and a cooking column "Memorable Meals," which runs in our county newspaper. Besides my family, I love dogs, cats, good coffee, and my never-dwindling pile of books I intend to read. Our family ran a small Vermont Inn for 18 years, with our focus on local, organic ingredients. After many years of daily serving up of our local delicacies, cooking classes, and catering, we are now only open for special events, and the odd cooking class as the spirit moves me. We also host musicians and artists, having helped produce a musical festival and other musical events for nearly 20 years. Many incredible artists have found a place at our table. Wonderful experiences, we will treasure always. My family and friends are my practice subjects. With a family that includes nut, peanut, tree fruit, and vegetable allergies, gluten intolerance, dairy intolerance, vegetarians, vegans, heart conscious, and a couple of picky eaters, there has to be a few quick tricks in the book to keep everyone fed and happy! Personally, I do not eat red meat or most dairy (usually) for health reasons, making the occasional exception at Thanksgiving and Christmas or our anniversary if the duck is locally raised. I do eat fish and seafood, so I try to come up with alternatives and substitutions when available. I serve local organic eggs and cheeses to my family who can tolerate dairy (My husband recently had a heart attack, and I need to watch my own cholesterol so I am careful, but have been known to let a little piece of really good cheese accidentally fall on my plate!). I believe strongly that eating in a way that is good for our planet is also good for our bodies! I cook by the seasons and draw on inspiration from the strong and talented women in my family who came before me, as well as the youth in the family who look at the world with fresh eyes. Food links us all, whether sharing a meal, cooking it together, or writing about it for others to enjoy. I love taking an old recipe and giving it a modern spin, especially if I can make it a littler healthier and use foods that are kinder to the Earth and to our bodies. I believe strongly in sustainable, delicious eating of whole foods, and the wonderful flavors we have at our fingertips! And finally, I love conversing with all the talented cooks and chefs out there who dot the globe! It's a wonderful, world full of culinary pen pals, and I cherish them all! XXXOOO Dorothy
    Dorothy’s New Vintage Kitchen says:

    Thanks for a lovely article Bernie! Perfect for this month. I’m so glad the book was reissued, and I look forward to exploring it. What an amazing life.

  3. That’s a big compliment to compare this talented soul food chef to Rao’s. I have all 4 of Rao’s cookbooks so I should certainly invest in this reprint. Small restaurants with a privileged clientele. Can I assume it’s no longer in business? Thanks for the info Bernadette 🙂

  4. Darlene – British Columbia, Canada – Writer of children's stories, short stories and travel articles.!/supermegawoman!/pages/Darlene-Foster-Writer/362236842733
    Darlene says:

    I love this story and the recipes. My mouth watered reading the recipe for the shrimp and that buttermilk pie! A perfect post for this month.

  5. V.M.Sang – UK – I was born and educated in the north west of England. I trained as a teacher in Manchester and taught in Salford, Lancashire, Hampshire and Croydon. I write fantasy novels currently. I also make cards, knit, crochet, tat, do cross stitch and paint. I enjoy walking on the Downs, cycling and kayaking. I do not enjoy housework, but like cooking.
    V.M.Sang says:

    Wow. She sounds to be quite a lady! Thanks you for introducing us to her.

  6. Wow! Sounds like Princess Pamela had it all…sass, song and serious cooking chops! What really caught my eye in her story was the brief time she spent in Winston-Salem, my city! I did a little digging and found various possible places where she worked while here, and most accounts suggest it was a lunch shop downtown near the old R.J. Reynolds Tobacco factory. Oh, how Pamela would have loved to see what has risen from the ashes there! The factory is gone, but the buildings and grounds have become a hot spot of downtown, filled with locally-owned restaurants, bars and breweries, plus a fantastic family-friendly park that is perfect for summer festivals. The Barnes & Noble here has a few copies of this reprint, and I’ll be picking one up this weekend!

  7. D. Wallace Peach – 30 Miles beyond the edge of civilization, Oregon – I'm an adventurer in writing, peering under rocks in my garden for secret magic. I can't stop writing. My stories want to explode from my head. They demand my attention and surge from my fingertips faster than I can put them to paper. I love what I do.
    D. Wallace Peach says:

    What a wonderful post, Bernadette. She sounds like a force to be reckoned with! Brave, undaunted, and confident about who she was and what she could do. I love her statement about getting through to the humanness in people. That was beautiful. And the recipes sound great. My husband enjoys soul food, and I’ll spring some of these on him. 🙂 Thanks for cooking up a smile this morning. 😀

  8. Retirement Reflections – Vancouver Island, BC – Prior to retirement, I lived and worked in Beijing China for fourteen years (Middle School Principal/Deputy Director at The Western Academy of Beijing). Leaving international life behind, my husband and I retired to Vancouver Island in June 2015. To document both this transition and our new adventures, ‘Retirement Reflections’ was born. I hope that you enjoy reading these reflections, and will be willing to share your own.
    Retirement Reflections says:

    What an inspiring story and a delight to read!

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